Category Archives: Hiking

Carter Notch

After seeing the promising early season snowpack decimated by the Christmas rain event, Kelly and I opted to skip the resort scene and head out for a light winter hike.  Now that we’re committed to a backcountry Montana excursion, some extra conditioning certainly couldn’t hurt.  An arctic front was firmly entrenched in the Whites for New Years weekend, bringing with it bitter cold and blustery conditions.  Not wishing to repeat our desperate scree-scramble atop Mt. Washington amid gale force winds, we selected a route substantially below treeline: Carter Notch via 19 Mile Brook Trail.

The hike is an 8 mile round trip, out and back.  It ascends gently for the first 3 – 3.5 miles, where it briefly climbs over the shoulder of the Wildcat ridge before dipping down in to the Notch.  The notch is a pretty spectacular spot: the precipitously steep east flank of the Wildcat Ridge tumbles into two alpine ponds nestled at the bottom of the even steeper Carter Dome.  Even though it’s not the majestic summit of some craggy peak, Carter Notch is a worthy day hike destination.

Since we were theoretically trying condition ourselves for the Montana trip, I loaded my 65 L pack up with all sorts of indulgent paraphernalia: puffy pants, a down jacket, down mitts, extra gloves, my shell, a fleece vest, microspikes, crampons, an ice ax, some camera equipment, you get the idea – way more stuff than you need for a low angle, sub-tree-line, day hike.  I also brought along my new flexible tripod to experiment with concocting some creative shots in the wilderness.  Have a look!

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Gear List:

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant - Men's Deep Torch, M Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant – Men’s Deep Torch, MBlack Diamond designed the Men’s Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant for backcountry skiers and aski mountaineers who want the breathability and flexibility of a softshell combined with the serious waterproofing of a traditional hardshell. Like all the gear in the Dawn Patrol collection, the Hyrbid Bib is made of stretchy and moisture-managing Schoeller softshell to keep you comfortable and moving freely, but unlike everything else it’s also been hooked up with a three-layer waterproof membrane to make short work of deep snow and soggy mornings. If that’s not enough, the fabric’s been treated with Nanosphere technology to repel water, dirt, and oil, and hooked up with articulated knees to let you kick turn, climb, and shred freely. Additionally, the Dawn Patrol comes complete with adjustable and removable suspenders to keep your pants from falling down, drawcord cuffs and ankle gaiters to block out snow, and full-length side zips to let you dump heat when you’re working hard for your turns. Keprotec scuff guards prevent ski edges and crampons from slicing up the bottom of your new pants, and the zippered pockets and harness-compatible fly make life a little bit easier when you’re up in serious alpine terrain.






Black Diamond Absolute Mitten Black, L Black Diamond Absolute Mitten Black, LThe Black Diamond Absolute Mitten protects your hands from the harshest conditions on expeditions the world over. The Absoute features a removable liner with a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable insert and two kinds of synthetic insulation to ward off ungodly cold and wet conditions. The four-way stretch shell rocks a goat leather palm, KEVLAR stitching and a reinforced thumb for incredible durability when handling fixed lines and rocky summit ridges.






Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe Gray, 80cm Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe Gray, 80cmThe Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe is designed to give you the greatest comfort and ease of use possible. The ergonomic, stainless steel head has a flat top and hourglass shape at its connection to the shaft. This creates a shape that’s comfortable to hang onto and allows fast transition to self-arrest. The Raven’s pick shape is very secure in self-arrest, and the large adze makes the dismal job of chopping a belay ledge a little more bearable. You’re going to be walking for days with your ice axe. The Raven’s comfortable head will make all the difference.






Black Diamond Axe Protector Bd Orange, One Size Black Diamond Axe Protector Bd Orange, One SizeBlack Diamond’s Axe Protector covers the pick and adze on your ice axe or ice tool, so you don’t open your gear duffel to find your down jacket shredded to bits. The Axe Protector fits nearly any ice axe, and it’s a lot cheaper than a new jacket.






Black Diamond Spike Protector Bd Orange, One Size Black Diamond Spike Protector Bd Orange, One SizeIf you’ve ever opened the trunk of your car to find your ice axe shaft sticking right through the side of a duffel bag, then you understand the value of the Black Diamond Spike Protector. This simple piece of TPU fits over the spike of nearly any ice axe and keeps the sharp point from attacking unsuspecting gear and clothes while you travel.






Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One Size Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One SizeThe Petzl Tikka + Headlamp is a workhorse of a headlamp for outdoor enthusiasts of every kind. This sharp little light provides constant lighting all day long, with three different beams, five modes, and even two modes for the red light. The headband is adjustable and washable, and the housing makes sure the light stays strong in rainy weather.






Black Diamond Crampon Bag Orange, One Size Black Diamond Crampon Bag Orange, One SizeCrampons and soft gear mix about as well as ten people in a four-person elevator. Stash your mighty ‘pons in the rough-and-tough Black Diamond Crampon bag to make sure there aren’t any hurt feelings, ropes, or jackets when you unpack and rack up after the approach. Vinyl-coated nylon keeps the pointy parts away from the things that, frankly, don’t like to be pointed at.






Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon Stainless, One Size Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon Stainless, One SizeWith 14 vicious fangs that tear up everything from vertical water ice to mixed alpine climbs, the Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon is the all-around favorite for versatile winter performance. This crampon’s stainless steel design features lower weight and higher durability than past incarnations of this crampon, as well as additional protection from rust and snowballing.






Tuckerman Inferno!

Last April, on a whim, Kelly and I signed up for the Tuckerman Inferno.  For those unacquainted, the Inferno is a pentathlon with solo categories, two-man team and five-man team categories.  We entered as  duo.  I would lead off with an 8+ mile run (with over 400 feet of hill climbing).  Kelly would take the second leg, navigating down the only recently thawed Saco River for 6+ miles, after which she would transition to the bike leg: 18 miles, nearly entirely uphill for a whopping  2000′ feet of climbing.  At Pinkham Notch Kelly would tag me and I’d set off on the last two stages of the race, the trail run, followed by the ski race.  The trail run consists of about 2000′ of hiking via the Tuckerman Ravine Trail, before a transition to ski gear for the final 800′ or so of climbing before skiing back down to Pinkham.  Check out the full course map, below.

But before all of that, we had to get all the gear and the people in the right spots.  The logistics were less than straightforward.  After much debate, we settled on a plan.  We talked Shane into loaning us his Jeep for the day.  Kelly would load her bike into his car, and drop it at the kayak-bike transition before proceeding to the run-kayak transition where should stash the key and wait for me to arrive on foot to start her first leg of the race.  Meanwhile, I would take the Xterra, with our 14′ kayak, to the kayak launch, and drag the kayak over the snow for about half a mile to river.  Following that, I’d drive to the race start, and park for the run.  Upon completing the run and tagging Kelly, I’d go find Shane’s car, and drive it back to the race start, retrieve my own car, and drive to Pinkham to wait for Kelly to bike in.  Kelly’s bike would be conveniently waiting for her at the transition, she’d arrive in Pinkham via bike and at the end of the race we’d drive the Xterra back to town, recover the kayak and Shane’s car and roll back to Denaro’s house for some serious napping.  Easy, right?

After squaring away all of the aforementioned logistics, I settled in at the start area and started getting my my head in gear for the run.  This consisted mostly of trying not to think about any of what was about to go on.  The last time I ran 8 miles was probably in high school, and the most amount of running I’d done any time recently was a measly 4 mile jaunt down the pancake flat Minuteman Bike Trail out our front door.  For that training attempt I ran in my Merrell Chameleon trail sneakers, and determined that they were way too stiff and heavy to do any serious running in.  For the race, I opted for my Merrell Trail Glove ultra-light trail running shoes.  To my surprise, I actually settled into a great pace and was able to hold my position all the way uphill for the first 4 miles of the race.  The downhill, however was my downfall.  My legs, which were conditioned for distance running, did not much care for the whole business of charging downhill for 4 straight miles in minimalist trail sneakers with virtually not cushion or support.  By the time I stumbled into the icy transition area by the Saco River, my knees were in full revolt, and I had lost maybe a half-dozen places during the descent, typically something which I would have considered a strong area.

Either way, Kelly got off to a good start on the Kayak leg, and I staggered back to the parking area in search of Shane’s car.  Unbeknownst to me, while I was fumbling with Shane’s low-on-battery-key fob and driving North on Route 16, Kelly was getting into a royal adventure on the frothing white water of the Saco.  Apparently, just minutes after putting into the water, a fellow racer, forced her to take a sub-optimal line through a stretch of rapids, causing her to go under a low hanging falling tree.  Unable to adequately limbo the tree, she was pulled out of her boat, breaking her paddle in the process.  I honestly have no idea how she managed to retrieve the kayak, and the paddle, and climb out of the river with 3′ high snow banks on either side after taking a full body dunk in 32.5 degree water, but somehow she accomplished all this, before running back to the run-kayak transition in search of a new paddle.  The course officials were unable to help, but a by stander informed her that he might have an extra paddle in his truck back in the parking area across the street.  What luck!  All she had to do was run across the street, find this guy’s truck, get the paddle, ran back to the river across knee deep snow and ice, and then back down the bank where the kayak was stashed, to continue the race.  Honestly I might have given up.  After all of this she managed not to be the last one out of the water, and in fact went on to make up significant lost time during the bike segment.

The bike segment starts with a mile or so of warmup, followed by an unrelenting ascent of the biggest hill I’d ever run up (the bike and run had some overlap), and a hairy 40 mph descent of said hill.  After that brief respite from climbing, the bike route climbs steadily for miles all the way to Pinkham Notch.  There was a lot of low gear action, from what I understand.

After the run leg, I drove up to the bike-hike transition, dropped my gear and then went in search of parking.  I strolled back to the transition with just some food and water and made myself comfortable in the late morning sun.  The bike-hike transition area was a fairly hilarious scene, as athletes rolled through, either done for the day, or heading onto the next leg of their race.  I bore witness to all manner of exhaustion-produced profanity and mishap as racers swapped gear and started the second to last leg.  By the time Kelly arrived, I was starting to worry that something had gone awry, but was expecting it to be more along the lines of how unspeakably arduous 18 miles of hill climbing on a bicycle is (that’s what pretty much all the rest of the bikers had to say upon arriving in the transition area).  Instead she told me that the climb was brutal, but that she had been passing people the entire way up, and the real trouble came during the kayak leg.  Finding myself inspired by her heroics on the Saco, I grabbed my gear and ran out of the transition area at at totally unsustainable pace.

After a few minutes, I settled into a speed-hike which I maintained for most of the rest of the hike.  For the hike I wore my Merrell Chameleon’s with microspikes, and carried my skis, boots and helmet with my lightweight TNF resort bag, along with a hydration pack.  I took 2-3 quick breathers but otherwise held a steady pace, making it from the Deritissma Parking lot to the foot of Hillman’s Highway in about an hour and a quarter.  From there I switched to my AT boots for the final push to the top of the GS course.  My transition was outright terrible.  After both of the legs cramped up, I spent like 10 minutes getting into my boots, which are ordinarily slippers compared to normal alpine boots.  I slogged up the well established booter to the top of the course and geared up for the final effort of the day.  I spent maybe another 5 minutes messing with gear and catching my breath at the top of the course.

The ski run is unfortunately the only leg of the race where we were able to capture footage of any sort.  We were supposed to have mounted a GoPro to Kelly’s kayak helmet, though in hindsight it may be better that I forgot to – God only knows what would have happened when she capsized under a tree…  Any way, here are some unique stills from the downhill portion of the Inferno.

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I have to admit that by the time I was skiing, my legs were totally shot.  I took more than a few quick breathers on the way down the mountain – not quite what I was hoping, but my legs were threatening to strike, and I had to acquiesce.  Maybe half an hour later, I straggled through the finish area, where Kelly was waiting.  She helped me drag my gear back to the parking area and rounded up Xterrible, before we headed over to Wildcat for the award ceremony and some apres-race beers.

We finished toward the back of the pack, as seen in the results here, but I would argue not too badly given the kayaking mishap, and overall lack of preparation.  Taking a closer look at the results, we can see that our transitions really killed us.  Kelly’s kayak to bike transition was a full 10 minutes.  That would have bumped us up one spot alone.  I’m certain I wasted valuable time during my own transitions as well.  It’s difficult to imagine a savings there pulling us up to the next rung, but if we subtract one kayak fiasco, maybe…  O well there’s always next year!

Gear List:

Merrell Chameleon 5 Waterproof Hiking Shoe - Men's Black Slate, 12.0 Merrell Chameleon 5 Waterproof Hiking Shoe – Men’s Black Slate, 12.0The Merrell Men’s Chameleon 5 Waterproof Hiking Shoe is your ticket to covering maximum ground in minimum time, especially when the type of ground you’re covering is constantly changing. The Gore-Tex Performance Comfort membrane keeps you dry when you bushwhack through dew-soaked foliage at first light and then breathes to keep you comfortable when temps rise later in the afternoon. Plus, the Vibram Chameleon sole is designed to grip just about everything you’ll encounter underfoot.






Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel GloveSave your hands from nasty rope burn and grimy dirt with the Petzl Cordex Belay/Rappel Glove. This double-layer leather glove features a breathable stretch nylon back for moisture control on sweltering crag days, and an ergonomic cut for full dexterity when feeding rope. The hook-and-loop neoprene cuff features a carabiner hole, so you can attach the Cordex to your harness after your buddy finishes flailing on his project.






Merrell Trail Glove 2 Trail Running Shoe - Men's Merrell Trail Glove 2 Trail Running Shoe – Men’sIf you’re a fan of Merrell’s Trail Glove shoe, relax; the Men’s Trail Glove 2 Trail Running Shoe is every bit as light and nimble as the model you’ve come to love. You’ll simply find that the sole is more flexible, the upper is smoother and more breathable, and the highly adjustable OmniFit lacing system has been tweaked. Oh, and the design has been upgraded, so you’ll look as great flying down the trail as you feel.






Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant - Men's Deep Torch, M Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant – Men’s Deep Torch, MBlack Diamond designed the Men’s Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant for backcountry skiers and aski mountaineers who want the breathability and flexibility of a softshell combined with the serious waterproofing of a traditional hardshell. Like all the gear in the Dawn Patrol collection, the Hyrbid Bib is made of stretchy and moisture-managing Schoeller softshell to keep you comfortable and moving freely, but unlike everything else it’s also been hooked up with a three-layer waterproof membrane to make short work of deep snow and soggy mornings. If that’s not enough, the fabric’s been treated with Nanosphere technology to repel water, dirt, and oil, and hooked up with articulated knees to let you kick turn, climb, and shred freely. Additionally, the Dawn Patrol comes complete with adjustable and removable suspenders to keep your pants from falling down, drawcord cuffs and ankle gaiters to block out snow, and full-length side zips to let you dump heat when you’re working hard for your turns. Keprotec scuff guards prevent ski edges and crampons from slicing up the bottom of your new pants, and the zippered pockets and harness-compatible fly make life a little bit easier when you’re up in serious alpine terrain.






POC Receptor Bug Adjustable Helmet Hydrogen White, XL/XXL POC Receptor Bug Adjustable Helmet Hydrogen White, XL/XXLThe POC Receptor Bug Adjustable helmet features some of the most advanced helmet technology on the market to provide unparalleled impact protection. POC’s signature double-shell system is made up of two ventilated shells that are placed at an offset for maximum protection from penetration while maintaining good airflow. The ABS outer shell forms a robust barrier while the EPS liner provides proven shock absorption capabilities. The built-in ventilation can be closed for colder days, and size adjustment makes this helmet suitable for a wide variety of head shapes.






Stoic Alpine Merino 150 Bliss Shirt Long Sleeve Mens Stoic Alpine Merino 150 Bliss Shirt Long Sleeve MensPull on the Stoic Men’s Alpine Merino 150 Bliss Shirt, and suddenly a sweaty hike in chilly weather feels like just another day in paradise. A smooth, comfortable combination of merino wool and synthetic fibers gives this next-to-skin layer the power to control moisture and help you keep a nice, even body temperature whether you’re hiking, running, or climbing. You get the best of the luxury baselayer and a performance-driven top, and that’s hard to ignore.






POC Lobes Goggle Replacement Lens Bronze/Silver Mirror, One Size POC Lobes Goggle Replacement Lens Bronze/Silver Mirror, One SizeWith huge lens coverage and a spherical shape that eliminates nasty distortion, the Lobes Goggle Replacement lenses give you more bang for your buck than an M80 packed with C4. Designed to fit the POC Lobes goggles, these lenses offer varying tints to amplify low light, cut nasty glare, and give you supremely clear vision in brutally adverse weather. POC finishes off these polycarbonate beauties with anti-fog and anti-scratch treatments.






POC Lobes Goggle All Black/Black/No Mirror, One Size POC Lobes Goggle All Black/Black/No Mirror, One SizeDesigned to promote maximum peripheral vision when you’re racing down the mountain at blistering speeds, the POC Lobes Goggle offers a large-sized frame and spherical-injected lens that’s placed on the outside of the goggle for effortless lens swapping. The lens itself is treated with an anti-scratch, anti-fog treatment, allowing you to see clearly through nasty snowstorms, as well as resisting scratches from small bumps. Its soft polyurethane frame increases safety, should you fall face first onto the snow, and the triple-layer face foam offers blissful comfort. Additionally, there’s a silicone backing on the strap, allowing the goggles to grip to your helmet without slipping off.






Kahtoola MICROspikes Traction System Kahtoola MICROspikes Traction SystemInstead of doing the slippery dance and pulling your groin on icy trails, strap on the Kahtoola Microspikes Traction System for instant footing and more graceful movement. Burly stainless steel cleats are connected by flex chains and an elastomer harness for a snug and secure fit and high performance. A heel tab makes the system a breeze to get on or off, and a sturdy front bar holds it in place up front. Whether you’re walking the dog, fishing on a frozen river, or doing that high-altitude hike with an icy peak, the Microspikes keep your flighty butt from hitting the ground.






Not Without Peril

Fortunately neither Kelly nor I have made it into any future editions of Not Without Peril, by Nicholas Howe during this weekend’s adventure, but it did serve as a succinct reminder to not underestimate the mountain…

We were up in North Conway for ESAW and though that we should really take advantage of the mountains as long as we were there.  It didn’t seem like there was much worthwhile skiing to be had, so we opted for a hike.  I picked a seemingly benign loop out of Pinkham Notch: Tuckerman Ravine Trail to Lion Head Trail, then south via Alpine Garden and Tuckerman Cutoff, and finally back down by way of Davis Path and Boot Spur Trail.

We got off to a leisurely start (11 AM), but made good time all the way until the Lion Head trail.  From there on, it was full blown winter conditions: mud, rock, snow drifts, water ice, and howling winds.  Even with micro-spikes our paced slowed to a crawl.  It took us a solid 3 hours to get to the top of the ridge between the Boot Spur and the summit, and suddenly our notion of a quick 6 mile jaunt began to evaporate.  About half way between the ridge and the treeline on the Boot Spur, the trail takes a sharp dip in elevation and the natural contours offer substantial relief from the wind.  We’d had to shout to be heard for the last hour or two.

With much more ‘enjoyable’ conditions along the Boot Spur I managed to snag a few photos with my phone (the Canon was out for repairs).  Upon emerging from the low clouds, we were treated to a stunning alpine fall twilight.  I tried to savor the view and set aside the prospect of hiking out with about ~2000′ of down-climbing in the snow and dark with just one headlamp.  At around 7 PM we skulked out of the woods and drove straight to May Kelly’s for some protein, whiskey and coffee.  I was tempted to reprise my trademark libations of one water, one coffee and one beer, but I didn’t care for their draft list.  The Irish Mixed Grille hit the spot pretty much perfectly though and the Merry Irishman (coffee, Bailey’s, Jameson) washed it down quite well.

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Gear List:

Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One Size Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One SizeThe Petzl Tikka + Headlamp is a workhorse of a headlamp for outdoor enthusiasts of every kind. This sharp little light provides constant lighting all day long, with three different beams, five modes, and even two modes for the red light. The headband is adjustable and washable, and the housing makes sure the light stays strong in rainy weather.






Lava!

For our final big day in Hawaii we endeavored to see some real, live, oozing, flowing lava!  Unfortunately we couldn’t find any, but the trip was amazing nonetheless.  At the time of our visit, Pu’u O’o was erupting (in fact it is still erupting at the time of this writing – you can read about it in the news).  The recommended approach is from the North – you drive through some neighborhoods, park near a trail head, formerly used by geologists, hike through the jungle and pop out near the volcano.  This would have been a modest hike along a reasonably well traveled trail for most of the way, and then some off-roading if we wanted to go look for some lava.  Unfortunately, the damn trade winds were still not in our favor, and we were forced to approach from the South – further round trip, uphill and off road the entire way…

We drove to the end of Chain of Craters road where the old lava flows eventually swallow up the road near the ocean.  The drive snakes through flows from past eruptions and is well worth it for the stark beauty of the barren landscape.  At the end of the road, there is a parking area where tourists stop to check out the lava arches that tumble into the ocean.  This was cool and all, but we had way bigger plans.

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A small flock of Nenes. These birds are descended from Canada Geese (the honking is quite similar) which became stranded in Hawaii while migrating.

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Before starting our hike we took some time to check out the wildlife and the arches. Pretty cool. We actually were more excited about the Nenes (pronounced Nay-nay) than the arches: signs cautioning us of Nene Crossings and Nene Nestings were literally around every corner, yet we didn’t see a single specimen the entire trip until now. We had started to think they were already extinct and nobody had bothered to remove the signs. In any event we got really excited and took a whole bunch of pictures of them, had a good look at some arches, and then started our off-roading.

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“Road Closed.” Oh for real?

We used Backcountry Navigator to plot a few waypoints (namely our start and stop points) and started picking our way through the rubble.  Clambering through the lava flow was made our brief trek through Kilauea Iki seem like a walk in the park and we soon began to wonder if we’d bit off more than we could chew.

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Route finding…

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The route was essentially uphill the entire way, punctuated with a few steep escarpments.  The steepest parts of the slope was broken up by patches of surviving foliage, so route finding was more complex than we had anticipated.  We leap-frogged from one pitch to the next trying not to get cliffed-out by the undulating lava flows and impassably dense shrubberies.16IMG_9011 16IMG_9020 16IMG_0957

Atop the last big escarpment, we take a look at our progress – a source of both pride and sorrow.  Backtracking through this labyrinth of crumbling rock would be no easier the second time around.

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The lava displayed amazing variety in texture, hardness and even color as we traveled across the barren land.

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Eventually we approached our turn around time – the point at which we would be arriving back to the car after dark if we didn’t head back immediately.  He had no strong desire to clamber down steep lava flows by the light of two headlamps, so we decided not to push our luck.  We did manage to a glimpse of Pu’u O’o, our ultimate destination, but were unable to spot any glowing red lava.  We saw some steamy smoke rising up from the crater and managed to give the optical zoom on my camera a nice workout, but were ultimately defeated.  We’d just traveled one of the slowest 6 miles of our lives and were pretty burned out, not to mention less than excited about the return trip, so we decided to bail.  We set the navigation back to the parking lot and began following the compass back downhill.

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Even though we didn’t get to see any lava, we gave it the ol’ college try and probably came much closer than anyone else that day.  Taking the ‘scenic route’ through one of the most impassable regions imaginable is always a rewarding experience the memories of the bizarre and tortured land we crossed will be with us forever.