Wildcat, Wildcat!

On the weekend on the 9th, a planned day hike turned into an ambitious overnight, and Sweeney, Rob and I once again made the trek to North Conway to hike the Wildcat range across the street from our winter hang out.

The plan was to light-weight backpack (~20-25lbs) starting at Glenn Falls, across the Wildcats, up Carter dome and the rest of the Carters, then summit Imp, Moriah, and Selburne Moriah, and descend to Wild River campground on Saturday.  Then on Sunday hike out via Carter Dome and back over the Wildcats.

On Saturday we got off to a great start with beautiful weather after a rough storm the night before.  Eager to make some mileage, we quickly ascended to Wildcat D where the top of Wildcat’s lifts are.

First up for the day, Wildcat summit with the bits of snow in the bowl as a backdrop.

First up for the day, Wildcat summit with the bits of snow in the bowl as a backdrop.

Descending into Carter Notch made for some impressive views, and a very steep descent and ascent of the Carter Dome.

An awesome look at the daunting Carter Dome from the Carter Notch Hut.

An awesome look at the daunting Carter Dome from the Carter Notch Hut.

Looking back at Wildcat from the hut, one of a few AMC huts fed by spring water.

Looking back at Wildcat from the hut, one of a few AMC huts fed by spring water.

Ascending Carter, looking back to the glacial ponds of the Notch

Ascending Carter, looking back to the glacial ponds of the Notch.

We hung around briefly on top of Carter to re-coup, but then pressed on to Mt. Hight which had far superior views.

Presidential Range panorama. All the photos come from Sweeney’s expert photography and far superior camera.

After Carter the rest of the ~4000 footers started to blur together a bit, but the ridge offered continuous views of the northern Presidential Range.

The northern end of our Saturday traverse, soaking in the views

The northern end of our Saturday traverse, soaking in the views

We crested Selburne Moriah in early evening, and booked it to camp.  We’d decided to go stoveless, which was not exactly my preference.  It worked out okay, and I was never hungry, but I think next time I’d do freeze-dried meals and a pot for approximately the same weight, like Sweeney and I did on our Bigelow Range traverse.

Evening view of the Presidential Range, looking back at the peaks we'd crossed

Evening view of the Presidential Range, looking back at the peaks we’d crossed

On Sunday we weren’t exactly rearing to go, but we broke camp and got moving quickly.  Unfortunately on of the first scenes we encountered was this:

Our first encounter with the Wild River Sunday morning.

Our first encounter with the Wild River Sunday morning.

Is that the trail across the river? It was.

Is that the trail across the river? It was. After Rob assured me the depth was a trick of the light, we made a waist-deep wade across, with our shoes around our necks.

After crossing the river, we proceeded down the Wild River Trail, until the trail abruptly disappeared into the river.  About .5 miles past the (closed) Wild River Campground, the trail had fallen completely into the riverbed, a remnant of Irene.  There had been no warnings, so we attempted to find the trail again, but eventually were forced to re-route and continue down the less exciting, but intact, High Water trail, after re-crossing the Wild River, this time via wooden suspension bridge.

At this point we’d backtracked a fair amount and wasted time locating trails and looking at maps. We re-evaluated our options, settling on a Carter Dome ascent via the Black Angel trail, and descent out Nineteen Mile brook trail from the base of Carter Notch.

We made a dogged ascent of Carter, once again a humbling experience.  As we descended, Rob went ahead to get the car, while Sweeney and I hiked out.  We were all relieved to get out of our wet trail shoes and head to Moat for a post-hike chow down.

The hike itself stands alone as the hardest, and one of the most rewarding hikes I’ve done to date, hitting 12 4000 footers and totaling ~40 miles round-trip.

Vineyards on a hill outside Schriesheim

Extremely European Excursion

Last month I was in serious need of some R&R before I joined the workforce permanently.  It was the perfect time to visit my parents where they live in the Netherlands, for a European holiday.

Almost all the following photos were taken by my sister Elisabeth.   At least all the good ones are hers.

A very Dutch photo, with a standard Dutch bike.

A very Dutch photo, with a standard Dutch bike.

The majority of the trip was centered around good food and good beer, but we did a fair amount of exploring, especially on a four-day jaunt over to Deutschland. It was awesome to be back in Europe after almost seven years, and touring by car and experiencing more of the day-to-day activities gave me a fresh perspective.

As we headed to Nijmegen by train, The first thing I noticed was how flat the Netherlands is.  I knew it was flat, but it is another thing to see the endless fields and orderly rows of trees.  The highest points of land seemed to be mainly dykes and highway bypasses.

Orderly trees on a hiking trail near Malden, the Netherlands.

Orderly trees on a hiking trail near Malden, the Netherlands.

The trip got off to a nice leisurely start.  I went for a bike ride with my Dad and got a feel for the Dutch lifestyle.  Every one of the Dutch owns several bikes, and usually get their first bike around 5 years old.  No one wears a helmet, which astounded me.  Another major change is that bikes have the right of way over pedestrians and cars, so almost everywhere the cars must yield at rotaries.  Coming from biking in Boston this was unsettling–more than once I hit my brakes  inadvertently.

Wijchen, where I was staying, being a very Dutch town, has both a castle and a mill.

The Wijchen working mill at dusk.

The Wijchen working mill at dusk.

On the 18th I went for a walk in the woods.  There aren’t many forested areas in the Netherlands, at least around Nijmegen, and I was struck by how young the trees were.  The trails were wide, sandy and flat, yet still about as close to hiking as you can get without leaving the country.  Many of the Dutch were biking on the extensive scenic trail network that connects most of the cities and towns in the Netherlands.  Whereas around town most bikes have internal hubs and are more of a comfort style with upright handlebars, out in the woods I saw bikes more common in the US, with derailleurs and drop bars.

One of the oldest trees

One of the oldest trees I found. Most of the trees in the Netherlands seemed very young.

That Saturday we drove off to south-western Germany to visit friends nearby Heidelberg.  They were kind enough to put us up at their house and show us around.  That evening I had the pleasure of enjoying my first Germany beer of the trip in Schwetzingen at the Brauerei zum Ritter.  Though there aren’t tons of different hoppy microbrews like in the US, the Germans know how to make a great hefeweizen.

Gardens at Schwetzingen Schloss

Gardens at Schwetzingen Schloss

Enjoying the unusually good weather

Enjoying the unusually good weather

The most majestic peacock.

The most majestic peacock.

A very German, but inexpensive dish.

A very German, but inexpensive dish. Meats, including Saumagen…which is meat cooked in cow’s stomach. And of course sauerkraut.

The Neckar river valley near Heidelberg where we were is very picturesque, almost exactly as I remembered it.  There are many Roman ruins dating back to before the common era.  We hiked around some walking trails that were part of the Kunst weg (Art trail).  It’s incredible that the Roman watch towers built as early as 1100 are still standing.

A Roman Watchtower on the Neckar, partially restored

A Roman Watchtower on the Neckar, partially restored

Looking down from the Schwalbe Nest onto the Neckar

Looking down from the Schwalbe Nest onto the Neckar

Vineyards on a hill outside Schriesheim

Vineyards on a hill outside Schriesheim

This hillside quarry looked like it had some sweet climbing.

This hillside quarry looked like it had some sweet climbing. Apparently there are 3 tiers to it.

We visited Koblenz on our way back to Wijchen, a city that both my sister and I had been to on our Germany exchanges.  However, this was the first trip my family has been overseas together in many years.  In Koblenz is the Deutsches Eck, where the Mosel joins the Rhein, and the site of an enormous statue of Emperor William I, as well as several pieces of the Berlin wall.  It’s quite a tourist attraction, but also a cool place to check out.  Besides the statue, the surrounding monument stands as an aspiration for German unity since the country was divided, then reunited.

William I monument at the Deutsches Eck

William I monument at the Deutsches Eck

Unfortunately the trip was over all too quickly.  We spent a bit more time in Wijchen and also an afternoon in Nijmegen.  Anyone who has seen the movie “A Bridge Too Far” might recognize the Nijmegen bridge that is crossed on the way to the Arnhem “bridge too far”.  The movie depicts Operation Market Garden, an unsuccessful Allied incursion during World War II.

Nijmegen bridge.

Nijmegen bridge.

We took the train to Amsterdam the Sunday before we left.  We managed to go on one of the several Dutch holiday weekends in May, and it was pretty busy.  Again I was surprised that no one even in the city wore a helmet while biking–the bike lanes didn’t seem nearly as safe on the narrow streets packed with tourists not watching where they were going.

I Amsterdam

I Amsterdam

We took the obligatory boat tour, which gave us a quick overview of the city and its history, then decided to head for the Heineken brewery tour.  On the way we passed many of the famed Dutch “coffee shops”.  The brewery, though no longer in use, was pretty cool, and Heineken did everything they could to teach you, not just about their beer, but about their company’s advertising.  Even so the beer was tasty and the motion ride in the POV of a beer was unique.  We were near the I Amsterdam statue afterwards, so we headed to the museum park to see it.  Although Amsterdam was interesting, it wasn’t really for me partly due to the number of other tourists we encountered.

Inside the Heineken Brewery.

Inside the Heineken Brewery.

We spent the last day in Xanten, the only Germany city that begins with X.  Next to the city is the excavated Roman town of Colonia Ulpia Traiana.  The town was active between the years ~70-400 mainly to support a Roman military base. At one time 2 of the 28 Roman legions were stationed in CUT (Xanten), which accounts for around 10,000 soldiers.  Though there were bits of the city, including a restored Amphitheater, the highlight was the museum with Roman weapons, tools and preserved baths excavations.

Partially restored temple in Xanten

Partially restored temple in Xanten

I don’t think Xanten is a typical American tourist location, since I believe we were the only ones speaking English there, although all the information was in several languages.

I’m already making plans to return for a different sort of trip next winter, so I’ve got a few months to brush up more on my German.

 

 

Lesson’s Learned

Another winter has come and gone, and before too much of it fades from memory, I thought I’d share some of the tips I picked up along the way.  None of it is especially profound, but who knows, maybe some of it will be useful to some one out there.

Black Diamond Ski Strap
Usage 1: Climbing Skin Melt-down

I have determined that it is not possible to overstate the usefulness of the Black Diamond Ski Strap to the back-country skier, especially the longer lengths.  Before I elaborate, let me stress the importance of carrying two of them and of getting the long ones.  They hardly weigh anything, so no quibbling about ounces!  In this case the added value is worth the 2 extra calories you’ll burn schlepping them up to the top of some mountain.  I’ll present my most compelling argument first…

Evidently, all three screws ripped out of the material simultaneously…

This past March, on mile 1.5 of our 5 day hut tour in the Wallowas, during the execution of a lazy AVA turn, I somehow managed to kick the tip loop of my brand new (as in not used once ever) Black Diamond Ascension Split Skin clean out of the skin, resulting in no less than 2 cougar screams (in the words of Colin Fletcher) and a short profusion of swearing.  Observe:

I briefly considered duct tape, and then briefly considered backing the screws out of the tip loop, cutting the damaged end of the skin off and re-trimming the entire length of it in the field with a pocket knife and trying to reattach the tip loop to the fresh end of the skin.  Fortunately, before I tried any of these Mickey Mouse schemes I thought of just wrapping a ski strap around the loose end of the ski.  I’m sure I’m not the first person to have thought of this, but if you have any doubts about the feasibility of this technique, consider that this was the technique that got me through the entire rest of the season!  The ski strap did suffer a few nicks around right around the edge of the skis, but has not failed.  Even so, the possibility of that failure has led me to believe that carrying an extra strap just in case is a worthwhile insurance policy while on any extended tours.

Ski strap with buckle on top. On a decently rockered ski, the strap won’t really contact the snow.

Tuck the loose end under the top so that it doesn’t drag and get run over by the other ski.

Usage 2: Emergency Booster Strap
Now here’s one that I haven’t actually heard of from anyone else.  I can’t personally vouch for it’s effectiveness, though during our Wallowa Alpine Hut trip, Karl claimed that it was somewhat helpful.  He was using borrowed AT boots and found them to be too soft to effectively steer a big pair of skis through heavy snow.  The setup was starting to ruin his day, and this was the best I could think of at the time.  I theorized that some added rigidity might stiffen up the spine of the boot.  It sounds like this was only marginally successful for him as his boots were really just too soft for him.  However, you have to bring at least one ski strap with you anyway, add an extra and you have at least something to fall back on in the event that you tear out a buckle post-holing near a big rock or experience some other kind of equipment failure while off the beaten path.

 

Hotronic Foot Warmers
I used to think that boot warmers were only for city slickers, ski bunnies in poofy jackets with fur hoods, old people and other individuals not exerting themselves enough to produce any body heat while on the slopes.  I now realize that they are in fact for ski bums who want to be able to ski bell-to-bell after the Arctic Oscillation dumps an eye-balls deep blanket of snow on top of Jay and tops it off with an ambient temperature of zero degrees Fahrenheit and 40 mph winds without getting yet another case of first degree frostbite.

The bite of frost, depicted in graphic detail. Notice the swelling, even on the normal colored toes.

They’re actually on the upswing here. After about an hour or so of being under a warm blanket the colored started to come back the blood started to effuse.

They some times go numb during long hikes…

With our Wallowas trip already reserved and mostly paid for, the only reasonable decision was to pick up some boot warmers and play it safe for the foreseeable future.  The crux of the whole setup is getting the 4 cell batteries and the extension cords.  I drop the extension cords down each pant leg, tie the extension into a simple knot and leave the batteries either in my pants pockets or clipped to my belt.  The belt is easily the more comfortable and convenient location, however storing them in a pocket should theoretically increase the battery life.  On low power, the 4 cell battery has lasted me all day.  Just having the option of instant heat alleviates a significant amount of stress during a long day in the mountains.  They’re worth the price tag.

Virtually no chance of the extension cord pulling out and snaking up your
pant leg.

Booster Straps
These are among my favorite purchases of the ski season.  For some reason, these aftermarket replacement straps seem to be most popular among the ski-racing culture and less so in the AT and back-country crowd.  Usually back-country shops have never heard of them, and when I walked into the local race shop with my BD Factor’s to get Booster Straps installed, the boot tech had never even heard of Factors…  Clearly some cross-pollination is needed. In any case, the leverage you are able to apply to the jam cleats on these things really lets you get them as tight as you could possibly want.  The slight give in the elastic bands gives you a really smooth flex and stiffens toward the end of the range, eliminates shin bang, and generally gives me considerably greater confidence in my boots.  They come in several stiffness-es: Junior, Intermediate, Expert and World Cup.  I went with the Expert on my Lange Comp Pro 120s and the World Cup on the DB Factor 130s.  I swear to Ullr, the World Cup straps stiffened the Factors up to the point that they’re comparable to the Langes!

 

Nokian Hakka 7 SUV Studded
Last, but by no means least, if you intent to chase storms and can possibly scrounge up the cash (or get another credit card) just get yourself the top of the line kicks for your ride.  Your frayed nerves will thank you in years not taken off the end of your life after countless white-knuckle rides through mountain passes in dim light.  In all seriousness my only concern with these tires is getting rear-ended by people who can’t stop as quickly.  The road noise is totally negligible and even with no snow on the ground, they feel as though they give a much more precise ride than the all-weather tires my car came with.  And they look pretty sweet, too.



Gear List (click links for more product info):

Free Shipping on Orders over $50Black Diamond Factor 130 Alpine Touring Boot - Men's Black/Envy Green, 28.5Black Diamond Ascension Nylon Split STS Climbing Skin