We chose a doubleheader for our first 14ers of the year and it did not disappoint! The hike itself is pretty straightforward: am obvious trail departs from the road and leads you via the path of least resistance up Grays and then Torreys. An optional knife-edge trail descends from the summit of Torreys, which we omitted, but could be used as a nice way to vary the scenery on the return trip. It doesn’t really change the mileage but ads some exposure. Both summits offer glorious views of the Summit County mountains. But the factor that really takes the cake for me is the stunning alpine valley from whence you begin. The best way (IMHO) to tick off these peaks is to drive up Stevens Gulch Road the day before until you get to the end or until you’d rather not punish your vehicle any further. The road peters out nearby an extensive alpine meadow sprinkled with mining remains and ample opportunities for car camping. Get an early start, find a nice camp spot and take in some world-class views while you acclimate. Waking up at the trailhead really takes the edge off of a 14er and the ambiance is second to none!
It occurred to us the other day, that for some reason we haven’t been backpacking once yet in Colorado! Clearly this was unacceptable, so Kelly picked out a nice warm-up outing so we could get our backpacking legs under us for the season. We booked a spot at Ouzel Lake, which has an upper and lower site. The lower spots were filled so we settled for the upper sites. The upper site is a tad farther from the trail-head, though in either case the whole walk would have been roughly 10 miles round trip. Would have been…
We’ll return to that thought in a bit. Before all of that, we travelled over a gently climbing and well maintained trail that hugs the St. Vrain and then the Ouzel Creek, through sparse pine forests, over several aesthetically appealing timber bridges, past raging cascades and eventually onto a thinly treed ridge offering 360 degrees of views, at least 270 degrees of which are spectacular.
…And as you can see above, the trail was ultimately smothered by an expansive blanket of snow. The well traveled bits and the sun baked parts were plenty supportable and we hardly needed our spikes. In fact, all was well until we lost the trail somewhere after the lower camp area. No worry; we’d just use Backcountry Navigator and the USGS tiles I just downloaded for the region that morning. We navigated back toward the trail and followed it up hill and into the woods through increasingly deep snow and steep terrain until we found ourselves standing atop a snow-bridge under which the Ouzel Creek roared savagely in the spring melt.
After Kelly briefly dipped a foot in the water we agreed to follow the trail as closely as we could without crossing any buried water. We bushwhacked further up a convoluted pine forest that would have made for an absolute playground of midwinter tree-skiing: constant pillowy undulations, and perfectly spaced trees. We navigated off trail through cliffbands and around snowy canyons until we were approximately to the location marked on the map as the upper campsite. After a solid hour of travel, we had covered only one mile. Bushwhacking in shin deep snow is no joke!
A second, third and maybe fourth look at the map revealed that we should have been standing in the creek. Indeed, we were standing on a small ridge running east-west. The creek emerged from a cliffside roughly to our north, and traversed under us to the south. We pondered this paradox briefly before concluding that we were standing on a massive snow drift (25 feet deep at least!?!?!) with running water below.
We realized that the campsites were essentially no more find-able than the trail, so we backtracked down toward the lower site. The lower site was in a similar state of affairs. No gargantuan snow drifts, but all low lying, flat terrain was buried in who knows how much snow. At least it was flat. Somewhat indifferent with defeat, we settled on the first level spot, threw down our packs and made camp.
Turns out, the spot we arbitrarily settled on could hardly have been better. Water was close at hand, and the views in either direction were great. We feasted, set up some time lapses, shot photos, strolled about and crawled into bed as soon as it was acceptably late. A nocturnal bathroom break yielded absolutely still air, a brilliant half moon, and surprisingly good visibility – no headlamps needed really, even though it was the middle of the night.
It must have been below freezing for most of the night, because the snow firmed up as soon as the sun set. Around 3 or 4 in the morning my 45 degree back became a little bit inadequate so I pulled on a down jacket snoozed happily until the sun woke us both in the morning.
When we crawled out of bed, our boots, socks and packs were covered in a light frost, which evaporated almost as soon as the sun hit them. The hike out was fast and cool in the morning air. In a couple of hours, backpacking number one was in the books and we were on our way to après-hike Mexican food.
One year ago today, we met Atlas at barely four weeks old. It’s crazy to think back to that day. He just passed his 1st birthday! It’s been a long year, a wild ride, and Atlas has changed Catherine and my lives in unexpected ways. Let me introduce you to Atlas.
Atlas, our German Shorthaired Pointer
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While we prepped to receive our pup, people told us things like ‘Oh, wow, I hope you’re ready. German Shorthairs are high maintenance and tough to train.‘ Let me tell you, they were right, at least for the first part. Atlas has basically unlimited energy. But, for the most part, we love it. We joke about how other dog owners mention they haven’t been to the dog park in a week, while we sometimes go twice a day. Atlas can hike or jog miles with us, do hundreds of fetches and still want to play tug before he goes to bed. A two-mile walk is the bare minimum exercise per day, for now.
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However, it’s almost exactly what I needed. It forces me to get up from my desk, get outside, and enjoy the day with him. We also get to socialize a bit at the dog park which gives Catherine some relief from my pent-up thought stream which shes gets an earful of because I work from home. For both of us, Atlas offers companionship so we aren’t lonesome, even if it’s in the form of bringing you a dirty sock.
Atlas is the most curious, happiest dog. And he’s handsome too. Just ask anyone at the local dog parks. He’s a great companion, whether it’s hiking, camping, or napping on the couch.
Training
Before we got Atlas, I had no idea what to expect. I basically knew nothing about training, or even owning a dog since I hadn’t been around them much growing up. To put it simply, I couldn’t have told you how to teach a dog to ‘sit‘. Catherine was a bit better off since she’d had a dog growing up and was our initial driving force behind the search for a pup.
Because I knew so little, I made it my mission to learn everything possible about owning and training puppies. I managed to get through a couple of books before we brought him home. All told, I read about a dozen books*, and dozens of online articles, about all breeds and GSPs specifically. I found the best tactic was to have several methodologies on hand, and use almost entirely firm, but positive, training methods.
Atlas was eager to learn, and took quickly to most training, which probably helped in the beginning as I was just getting the concepts down. Pretty much everything we did was a first for both of us. Catherine and I would switch off giving him commands around the house and the yard. Before three months we started taking him on short hikes to local parks and training him on a long lead.
Luckily for us, Atlas is very food motivated. I feel that training would’ve been a lot different otherwise. We graduated from lures to clicker training for heeling and recall along with random reward and varied reward schedules. I think continuing to have occasional food rewards, especially for off leash obedience helps him continue to improve. Many dog owners either over treat or trail off the reward so quickly that it hurts training. For the most part Atlas got mini-treats, 1-3 (or none) round pellet like chicken treats. For potty training and off leash work we used dried liver, then cheese. Now that I’m more experienced, I sometimes catch myself as I’m about to repeat a command, since it’s definitely a bad habit I picked up early on.
A benefit of my work situation meant that I could train with Atlas anytime the opportunity presented itself. Often during lunch, I’d grab a treat bag and we’d head out into the yard and around the block to focus on the skill for the day. That could mean fun training with fetch and retrieve, or pacing up and down the street working on leash walking.
Now, Atlas knows many commands: sit, stay, wait, down, up, off, leave it, look, touch, place, spin, fetch, go to it, find it, take it, OK, come, heel, this way (casting off), bring it, go play, kisses, calm down, go potty. He also knows words: Mommy, Daddy, Dylan, Bird, Crow, Toy, Ball, Bone, Crate, Couch, Harness, Walk, Dog Park, Cheese, Good Boy.
Of those commands, we can also take Atlas through the basics on hand signals alone. He does really well with signals at the dog park, or to cast him back in the direction we’re headed. We had a few different training zones. First, inside the house, then the yard on and off leash, then on walks, then at the dog park both during playtime and when we were on our own, and lastly, off leash during hikes.
While Atlas hasn’t mastered all his commands, he’s always learning. If we were to do it all over again, I think we’d focus more on leash walking and even more on recall. I feel that GSPs especially have unbridled joy, curiosity and a drive to explore which can make a short walk a tedious process when Atlas is at full energy.
He’s pro at a lot of things, and of course some things are a work in progress. We try to keep teaching him new tricks so he doesn’t get bored.
Atlas in the Outdoors
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One place I found most dog books leave out is training your dog for the outdoors. Basic training books essentially tell you to never let your dog out of your sight, and only off leash rarely, if ever. Make sure your dog is well socialized and trained enough to behave at the dog park and prevent incidents, and you’re good to go! Great, I thought, but what about MY dog who needs to run miles a week, sleep in a tent and loves to smell every inch of the world?
Hunting books were helpful, as were hiking specific books. A lot of it was trial by fire though. Camping is part of our lifestyle, so we took Atlas. In the winter. Often, that meant tying him out at the campsite and wrapping him up at night in the tent. Luckily he took to sleeping in a tent pretty quick. We worked on his recall with a long lead and in empty school fields. Dylan lent a hand to keep us sane.
The big turning point was when we went to Montana. We were in forest land, away from civilization and most other people. We let Atlas off leash, trusting him to return. We turned it into a big game. All day, he came and went, we called him back, played fetch and gave him treats for staying near us. After that, we knew he’d at least always return, and wouldn’t go too far. Since then he’s been getting better and better on off leash hikes.
After hikes or serious activity Atlas reaches ‘normal’ dog energy levels and loves to cuddle, and just generally chill out. For a few hours at least.
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Another thing is, Atlas’ excitement is hard to contain on a hike. Yes, I can rein him in and we can leash walk up and down the trail, but it’s more fun for all of us if he can explore a bit. At least, if there’s not too many people on the trail. Having hiked a lot without a dog, I know that not everyone wants to encounter even a friendly dog off leash on the trail. That etiquette lead us to select less popular hikes that are farther afield so we can all enjoy a more tranquil experience without needing to call Atlas to our side around every bend. I’d say that while I like sharing the trail and meeting new people, it’s made our hikes more pleasant to come across fewer groups.
Sometimes I get concerned when Atlas gets ahead of us, out of sight. A quick whistle or call, and he comes bounding back down the trail. He was just ahead of us, a tiny bit out of sight! So far my worries have been unfounded, and more often than not even if we come upon something or someone abruptly, we can distract or recall Atlas. I think that even with the best trained dog, when you let a dog off leash you have to accept that the unexpected might happen. To me, it boils down to the same argument of whether to frequent the outdoors or not. It might be safer to exercise myself and Atlas around our neighborhood, but we’d be depriving ourselves of the great outdoors in the process.
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Now that Atlas is full-grown and has boundless energy I want to do some dog roading with him attached to my bike. Our first experiment met with a defective bike attachment so I’ve built a sturdier one and converted his harness into a roading harness, transferring any stress from it to his shoulders. It’s a work in progress but I know we can do it!
Also, come this ski season I think Atlas will be ready to play in the PNW powder with me!
Hunting
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‘Do you hunt?‘ is a question we get asked a lot, from people who recognize Atlas’ breed by his brown and grey flecking. The answer is no, we don’t. That’s not to say we never will. The past two summers Catherine and I have been fortunate enough to try trap shooting in Oregon with her family. This year we brought Atlas and he got acclimatized to the sound, at a distance. That said, there’s a few steps and a lot of bird dog training between that and taking Atlas pheasant hunting.
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However, we have taught Atlas the basics. We do wing on a string to work on his points, and practice fetch and retrieves with bumpers. I work on getting him to quarter fields when he’s off leash. A lot of commands I want him to understand for hiking are the same or similar to what you might use while hunting.
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Also, Atlas has good instincts, and it would be a sight to watch him put them to use. His sire was the 2011 Gun Dog champion. Atlas sees with his nose, and can spot all the crows in the neighborhood from 100 yards away, 50 feet up in a tree. Regularly on our walks we pause while he goes on point at a robin or crow. Usually I let him creep up and then tell him to flush them. I honestly don’t know what the right thing to do is, I mean, a robin is not a quail. Pull him away, or let him try to chase?
One possible answer to off leash control is an e-collar. Even positive gun dog trainers and many GSP owners seem to use them on a vibrate setting in training to get attention and act as a mild negative reinforcement. The vibration is removed when the dog is performing the proper command. While we’re a bit uncomfortable with the idea, and the associated cost, I could see using it in the future to train even more reliable obedience.
Family
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Dylan is Atlas’ best friend, and has been an integral part of his life growing up. He is always there to help us out and get some extra playtime in with the pup. I’m sure Atlas feels like ‘Uncle Dylan’ is part of the family. As puppy owners it was great to have a third person around to divert Atlas’ energy and attention occasionally.
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Future with Atlas
Life with a dog continues to improve, and it’s certainly interesting. Even though Atlas has added some complexity and costs to our life, he’s helped us out in many ways. Atlas helps remind us that being excited, curious, and friendly everyday helps make life an adventure. We’ve made plenty of memories in the past year and when I look back, I’m glad Atlas was there to experience them with us.
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*Full list of books:“The German Shorthaired Pointer”, “Before & After Getting Your Puppy”, “Gun Dogs & Bird Guns”, “Hiking and Backpacking with Dogs”, “Training the Best Dog Ever”, “Positive Gun Dogs”, “German Shorthaired Pointers Today”, “I’ll Be Home Soon”, “Best Hikes with Dogs: Western Washington”, “Inside of a Dog”, “The Koehler Method of Dog Training” (outdated and not recommended). Another good online resource specific to GSPs was YT channel “Willow Creek Kennels“.
After earning some turns, we set off the next morning for Vantage, WA to climb at Frenchman Coulee. I’ll be writing this entry since Sweeney has a backlog of his own adventures to catch up on, so stay tuned for that. Vantage was quite a change of environment, by leaving spring in Seattle, driving up over Snoqualmie Pass, through winter and into arid flat lands. Catherine has a great photo post of the trip, but I’ll try to add some details about the climbing itself.
Frenchman Coulee was pretty impressive upon arrival. There was tons of routes and plenty of climbers out already.
First we ascended a ridge to get to the other side of the canyon. Descending through a chimney,
Which lead us down to the routes.
After staring at the guidebook on the Sunshine Wall for awhile, we picked a rote that wasn’t listed but looked fun and doable, considering I hadn’t lead climbed for about a year. Nearly all the climbing in Vantage is sport, or trad.
We suited up, and I started leading.
A little rusty at first, it was a good first route to lead on, maybe 5.6 or 5.7?
Roughly everyone who passed us with a real guidebook asked us which route this was (just right of the chimney). I think it was in the Stems & Seeds section, but we couldn’t answer their questions.
Catherine on route.
With Sweeney on belay.
Catherine un-clipped the ‘biners, with finesse, and next up Sweeney climbed and cleaned the route.
And once cleaned, got the fun of rappelling off.
Afterwards we prospected some more routes.
But ultimately decided for a lunch break and choosing a campsite. Back up through the chimney we saw a lot of climbing going on at a tower and on the Feathers, our afternoon objective.
A prime camping location was chosen, and the lunching commenced.
The Feathers were up next. Again the guidebook was falling a bit short in describing the numerous routes. We picked a good looking one, but the crux was a little tougher than anticipated at 5.9, we later found out.
We hung around the Feathers and then retired to our campsite for frisbee and dinner.
Afterwards we stayed up to watch the stars, although some clouds rolled in.
The photos are a compilation of Catherine’s, Sweeney’s and mine. The square ones were borrowed from Catherine’s instagram. She was the main photographer for the day.
