Tag Archives: White Mountains

Pemi Loop

Summer 2014 came and went with nary a rugged mile hiked the entire season! Not really sure what happened, but Kelly and I managed to get roped into everything aside from hiking. No regrets really – just no mountain climbing in 2014.

In May of 2105 we uncorked our bottled up zeal for arduous mountain adventure by doing what we do best: biting off way more than we can chew and getting ourselves good and committed. Of course we invited everyone we could think of (the final roster included Deb, Ruthie, Ben, myself and Kelly) and sallied forth into the Pemigewasset Wilderness armed with a smorgasbord of untested backpacks, unbroken boots, and ill-conditions legs.

Our original plan as proposed by Deb was to go summit Katahdin, but we learned at the last minute that Memorial day in Baxter closely resembles winter. Thusly, we aborted that plan and pivoted back to a known quantity: the Pemi Loop. We opted for a more ‘leisurely’ pace by splitting the circuit across 3 days and 2 nights. In hindsight I’m dubious that the 3 day pace is any easier than the overnight, simply due to the spectacular amount of gear that must be hauled to make multiple overnights comfortable. Anyway the hike was ultimately fun, if not a rude awakening for a first-outing-of-the-season.

IMG_0059

The Crew

Day one was the longest and most difficult day: we walked from Lincoln Woods Campground, over Franconia Ridge, all the way to the base of Garfield where we camped for the night. Franconia Ridge was hallmarked by spectacular winds and beautiful, clear skies. On day two we dragged our achy selves over Garfield (I’d say we all had some choice words for that mountain – both up and down), and then up and down a whole bunch more gnarly mountains which finally taper into the plateau-ish Bond Range where we were able to skulk into camp at Guyot Tentsite. We were among the last to arrive that night and were relegated to the lean-to shelter. Tents were uncalled for, but earplugs might have been nice. Day three was by far the easiest. You ease into the day with a gentle traverse of the Bonds featuring spectacular views of the Pemi and Franconia Ridge and eventually begin the long slow descent back toward Lincoln Woods. The hike from the bottom of the Bonds along an abandoned logging railway feels simply interminable and the monotony steadily builds toward a bursting point when suddenly you waltz out of the woods and into the parking lot. We wasted virtually no time in trading our boots for flip flops and hastily made our way back to town for some non-freeze-dried victuals. The Woodstock Inn Brewery, pre-ordained about 3 miles after we started hiking on Day One satiated our respective hungers and thirsts as well as ever, after which we sleepily traipsed back toward home, leaving behind a Memorial Weekend well spent.

IMG_0061

IMG_0062

IMG_0064

IMG_0068

IMG_0070

Classic White Mountain scramble

IMG_0071

IMG_0076

IMG_0078

IMG_0081

High on the ridge, the winds howl

IMG_0084

IMG_0086

IMG_0093

Garfield Pond

IMG_0094

Camp 1

IMG_0097

Home sweet home!

IMG_0099

So wait, what are we supposed to do here?

IMG_0100

Seriously?

IMG_0104

IMG_0105

IMG_0106

Spikes would have been nice…Garfield, grrrrrrr…

IMG_0109

IMG_0119

IMG_0122

IMG_2112

Camp 2
Photo Credit: Deb

 

IMG_0124

IMG_0130

Sunrise

IMG_0131

This picture pretty much sums up everything about backcountry travel…

IMG_0133

IMG_0138

IMG_0140

IMG_0142

IMG_2115

Photo Credit: Deb

Carter Notch

After seeing the promising early season snowpack decimated by the Christmas rain event, Kelly and I opted to skip the resort scene and head out for a light winter hike.  Now that we’re committed to a backcountry Montana excursion, some extra conditioning certainly couldn’t hurt.  An arctic front was firmly entrenched in the Whites for New Years weekend, bringing with it bitter cold and blustery conditions.  Not wishing to repeat our desperate scree-scramble atop Mt. Washington amid gale force winds, we selected a route substantially below treeline: Carter Notch via 19 Mile Brook Trail.

The hike is an 8 mile round trip, out and back.  It ascends gently for the first 3 – 3.5 miles, where it briefly climbs over the shoulder of the Wildcat ridge before dipping down in to the Notch.  The notch is a pretty spectacular spot: the precipitously steep east flank of the Wildcat Ridge tumbles into two alpine ponds nestled at the bottom of the even steeper Carter Dome.  Even though it’s not the majestic summit of some craggy peak, Carter Notch is a worthy day hike destination.

Since we were theoretically trying condition ourselves for the Montana trip, I loaded my 65 L pack up with all sorts of indulgent paraphernalia: puffy pants, a down jacket, down mitts, extra gloves, my shell, a fleece vest, microspikes, crampons, an ice ax, some camera equipment, you get the idea – way more stuff than you need for a low angle, sub-tree-line, day hike.  I also brought along my new flexible tripod to experiment with concocting some creative shots in the wilderness.  Have a look!

IMG_0913 IMG_0917 IMG_0919 IMG_0921 IMG_0924 IMG_0923 IMG_0928 IMG_0930 IMG_0932

Gear List:

Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant - Men's Deep Torch, M Black Diamond Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant – Men’s Deep Torch, MBlack Diamond designed the Men’s Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib Pant for backcountry skiers and aski mountaineers who want the breathability and flexibility of a softshell combined with the serious waterproofing of a traditional hardshell. Like all the gear in the Dawn Patrol collection, the Hyrbid Bib is made of stretchy and moisture-managing Schoeller softshell to keep you comfortable and moving freely, but unlike everything else it’s also been hooked up with a three-layer waterproof membrane to make short work of deep snow and soggy mornings. If that’s not enough, the fabric’s been treated with Nanosphere technology to repel water, dirt, and oil, and hooked up with articulated knees to let you kick turn, climb, and shred freely. Additionally, the Dawn Patrol comes complete with adjustable and removable suspenders to keep your pants from falling down, drawcord cuffs and ankle gaiters to block out snow, and full-length side zips to let you dump heat when you’re working hard for your turns. Keprotec scuff guards prevent ski edges and crampons from slicing up the bottom of your new pants, and the zippered pockets and harness-compatible fly make life a little bit easier when you’re up in serious alpine terrain.






Black Diamond Absolute Mitten Black, L Black Diamond Absolute Mitten Black, LThe Black Diamond Absolute Mitten protects your hands from the harshest conditions on expeditions the world over. The Absoute features a removable liner with a Gore-Tex waterproof breathable insert and two kinds of synthetic insulation to ward off ungodly cold and wet conditions. The four-way stretch shell rocks a goat leather palm, KEVLAR stitching and a reinforced thumb for incredible durability when handling fixed lines and rocky summit ridges.






Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe Gray, 80cm Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe Gray, 80cmThe Black Diamond Raven Ice Axe is designed to give you the greatest comfort and ease of use possible. The ergonomic, stainless steel head has a flat top and hourglass shape at its connection to the shaft. This creates a shape that’s comfortable to hang onto and allows fast transition to self-arrest. The Raven’s pick shape is very secure in self-arrest, and the large adze makes the dismal job of chopping a belay ledge a little more bearable. You’re going to be walking for days with your ice axe. The Raven’s comfortable head will make all the difference.






Black Diamond Axe Protector Bd Orange, One Size Black Diamond Axe Protector Bd Orange, One SizeBlack Diamond’s Axe Protector covers the pick and adze on your ice axe or ice tool, so you don’t open your gear duffel to find your down jacket shredded to bits. The Axe Protector fits nearly any ice axe, and it’s a lot cheaper than a new jacket.






Black Diamond Spike Protector Bd Orange, One Size Black Diamond Spike Protector Bd Orange, One SizeIf you’ve ever opened the trunk of your car to find your ice axe shaft sticking right through the side of a duffel bag, then you understand the value of the Black Diamond Spike Protector. This simple piece of TPU fits over the spike of nearly any ice axe and keeps the sharp point from attacking unsuspecting gear and clothes while you travel.






Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One Size Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One SizeThe Petzl Tikka + Headlamp is a workhorse of a headlamp for outdoor enthusiasts of every kind. This sharp little light provides constant lighting all day long, with three different beams, five modes, and even two modes for the red light. The headband is adjustable and washable, and the housing makes sure the light stays strong in rainy weather.






Black Diamond Crampon Bag Orange, One Size Black Diamond Crampon Bag Orange, One SizeCrampons and soft gear mix about as well as ten people in a four-person elevator. Stash your mighty ‘pons in the rough-and-tough Black Diamond Crampon bag to make sure there aren’t any hurt feelings, ropes, or jackets when you unpack and rack up after the approach. Vinyl-coated nylon keeps the pointy parts away from the things that, frankly, don’t like to be pointed at.






Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon Stainless, One Size Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon Stainless, One SizeWith 14 vicious fangs that tear up everything from vertical water ice to mixed alpine climbs, the Black Diamond Sabretooth Pro Crampon is the all-around favorite for versatile winter performance. This crampon’s stainless steel design features lower weight and higher durability than past incarnations of this crampon, as well as additional protection from rust and snowballing.






Not Without Peril

Fortunately neither Kelly nor I have made it into any future editions of Not Without Peril, by Nicholas Howe during this weekend’s adventure, but it did serve as a succinct reminder to not underestimate the mountain…

We were up in North Conway for ESAW and though that we should really take advantage of the mountains as long as we were there.  It didn’t seem like there was much worthwhile skiing to be had, so we opted for a hike.  I picked a seemingly benign loop out of Pinkham Notch: Tuckerman Ravine Trail to Lion Head Trail, then south via Alpine Garden and Tuckerman Cutoff, and finally back down by way of Davis Path and Boot Spur Trail.

We got off to a leisurely start (11 AM), but made good time all the way until the Lion Head trail.  From there on, it was full blown winter conditions: mud, rock, snow drifts, water ice, and howling winds.  Even with micro-spikes our paced slowed to a crawl.  It took us a solid 3 hours to get to the top of the ridge between the Boot Spur and the summit, and suddenly our notion of a quick 6 mile jaunt began to evaporate.  About half way between the ridge and the treeline on the Boot Spur, the trail takes a sharp dip in elevation and the natural contours offer substantial relief from the wind.  We’d had to shout to be heard for the last hour or two.

With much more ‘enjoyable’ conditions along the Boot Spur I managed to snag a few photos with my phone (the Canon was out for repairs).  Upon emerging from the low clouds, we were treated to a stunning alpine fall twilight.  I tried to savor the view and set aside the prospect of hiking out with about ~2000′ of down-climbing in the snow and dark with just one headlamp.  At around 7 PM we skulked out of the woods and drove straight to May Kelly’s for some protein, whiskey and coffee.  I was tempted to reprise my trademark libations of one water, one coffee and one beer, but I didn’t care for their draft list.  The Irish Mixed Grille hit the spot pretty much perfectly though and the Merry Irishman (coffee, Bailey’s, Jameson) washed it down quite well.

20141109_161700 20141109_161651 20141109_160210 20141109_160203 20141109_160157 20141109_160153 20141109_155858 20141109_155852 20141109_155844 20141109_155835 20141109_155829

Gear List:

Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One Size Petzl Tikka + Headlamp Grey, One SizeThe Petzl Tikka + Headlamp is a workhorse of a headlamp for outdoor enthusiasts of every kind. This sharp little light provides constant lighting all day long, with three different beams, five modes, and even two modes for the red light. The headband is adjustable and washable, and the housing makes sure the light stays strong in rainy weather.